Baboon Pirates

Scribbles and Scrawls from an unrepentant swashbuckling primate.

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Location: Texas, United States

Wednesday, August 10, 2005

I'm Gonna Go Chug A Coke...

So I Can Belch And Taste Those Ribs Again!

Man O Man, that was some tasteeeee barbecue!

I was up at a facility on the north side of town for a meeting this morning, and took the opportunity at lunchtime to hunt down a barbecue joint I'd heard nothing but good things about. Rumor has it that they've got the best barbecue ribs in Houston.

Well, the rumors are true. The ribs are spectacular. The brisket's pretty damned good as well. Prices are reasonable, and the service quick and friendly. Aside from being in the middle of nowhere (relative to my usual haunts), this place could easily become a regular hangout.

It's called William's Smokehouse, and it's on the west side of Wheatley about 1/4 mile north of Tidwell. (Ella Blvd. becomes Wheatley once it crosses 43rd St.)

It's a small joint, with maybe room for 10 cars in the lot. You go in the front, smelling the aromatic smoking barbecue pits all the way around the building. You place your order through a small window, take a number, and if you're eating in the small dining room, they'll bring you your order. It's not fancy. Paper cups and styrofoam plates are the rule here. With meat this good, though, they could serve it off a sclerotic hog's back, and I'd still lick it clean afterwards.

The ribs are done up with a dry rub, then smoked for who knows how many hours over post oak logs. The brisket is done in a similar fashion, judging from the thick black crust on the outside. The smoke ring on the brisket is a good 1/2" deep, and biting into an end piece with that crust is so tasty it gives you a shiver like the first time you bust a nut kiss a girl. Makes you wanna roll around on the floor and speak in tongues.

The ribs, though... Most of the time, with barbecue ribs, I just slurp off all the meat that's easy to get to, then head for the next rib. These had me twisting and gnawing after every last morsel. Nothing left afterwards but the bone and a few gristle knobs.

The sauce is pretty good. Peppery-vinegary, with a deep spicy flavor to it. Also, I spotted the odd tiny piece of onion and tomato, which adds to the texture. The meat gets along just fine without the sauce, but adding it doesn't detract at all.

The sides of potato salad and slaw were OK, but nothing special. You're here for the meat, anyway.

$9 for the two-meat dinner, meat by the pound for $11, whole rib racks for $18.

How does this stuff rank on my all-time best barbecue list? It eases past the Huntsville, TX New Zion Baptist Church's "Immaculate Barbecue". Comes close to Jim Neely's Interstate BBQ in Memphis, TN, and falls a wee bit shy of Angelo's in Fort Worth, TX. Easily takes the #3 spot.

Seek it out, 'cue lovers! Good stuff!